BREGUET

COLLECTIONTYPE XX

As for the bezel contrasting with the case, they appeared on the second generation of Type XXs dating from the 1970s, which were adorned with different graduations such as tachymeter scales, or with GMT indications.

These historical references blend with the emblematic codes of the civilian Type XX. The 15-minute counter is located at 3 o'clock, the 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock and the running seconds at 9 o'clock. Just as in the military-inspired version, the size of the counters differs to make the dial more dynamic and legible.

This new model is presented in a havana-coloured leather box reminiscent of an aircraft wing profile. It is delivered with both alligator leather and NATO straps, in midnight blue. The NATO strap is embellished with white piping. The interchangeable strap system enables the leather strap to be removed easily, independently and tool-free.

Simply pressing the pushers beneath the lugs makes it possible to attach and detach the two halves of the leather strap, while the NATO strap slips between the two bars, passing under the case.

Whatever function is used, the pressure exerted on the pushers is even and balanced. As for the vertical clutch mechanism, it was chosen for its precision upon starting. Finally, to ensure the robustness of the movement and guarantee its precision in the event of shocks, the Maison opted for a cross-through bridge to hold the balance wheel in place.

Designed to take up as much of the space available in the movement as possible, the barrel providing the energy is fitted with a spring whose high-energy-density material provides a longer 60-hour power reserve.

A great deal of effort has gone into the aesthetics of the movement and its decoration: in addition to the sunburst motif, snailing, chamfering, circular graining and other visible decorations on the components, the brand has given the column wheel a black treatment combining contrast with tribological improvement. The sapphire crystal caseback reveals not only the details of the movement but also its oscillating weight. The blackened gold oscillating weight is shaped like an aircraft wing and engraved with the Breguet logo.

The Arabic numerals and the triangle on the bezel are luminescent and feature a mint green shade, as do all the hands. The 30-minute totalizer located at 3 o'clock is now larger than the 60-second totalizer displayed at 9 o'clock, and a date window has been added between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel, as was that of the models delivered to military air forces in the past. The crown reflecting the original pear shape is adjustable in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, 3) time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher serves to activate the chronograph, the one at 4 o'clock for the “flyback” function. The former is used to start and stop the watch, while the latter serves to reset the chronograph and the minute totalizer.

First of all, its display: the 15-minute totalizer is located at 3 o'clock, the 12-hour totalizer at 6 o'clock and running seconds at 9 o'clock. Just as in the military-inspired version, the totalizer is sized differently to make the dial both more dynamic and more legible. The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are coated with an ivory-coloured luminescent treatment. The date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight crown enables setting in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, 3) time setting. The 2 o'clock pusher starts and stops the chronograph functions, while the one at 4 o'clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately, based on the famous “flyback” principle.

It incorporates all the designs of a modern chronograph such as a column wheel, vertical clutch, 5 Hz frequency as well as an innovative zero-resetting activation system. Alongside these elements, it also benefits from the latest technical innovations in the field of chronometry (precision timing).

The balance-spring, the escape-wheel and the pallet-lever horns are made of silicon. In addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, silicon is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and improves the accuracy of the timepiece. Moreover, this self-winding chronograph has a 60-hour power reserve.

A function benefiting aviation, fitted to all Type XX chronographs made after 1954 as well as to a variety of chronographs designed for aircraft instrument panels. Appreciated by pilots for its time-saving potential, the retour en vol (flyback function) returns the chronograph hand to zero at the touch of the lower button.

The hand then restarts immediately from zero. Without this function, three separate operations would be necessary to achieve the same result.

These innovative activation and zero-resetting systems have been designed for crisp and accurate use. Whatever function is performed, the pressure felt on the pushers will be even and balanced. The same applies to the vertical clutch mechanism, which has been adopted for the accuracy of its activation.

The chronograph hand thus starts instantly without any initial jerks. To make the movement robust and guarantee its precision even in case of potential impacts, a cross-through bridge was chosen to secure the balance in place.